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Douro Valley, Portugal

A house at the top of a very old valley

Fourteen rooms in a four-hundred-year-old quinta, a kitchen that writes its menu each morning, and a great deal of nothing to do.

14
Rooms
400yr
Old walls
40km
Sourcing radius

The house

It was a working quinta long before it was a hotel

The walls went up in 1618 to store wine, and for most of four centuries that is exactly what they did. The floors are uneven, the windows are where the light was needed rather than where symmetry wanted them, and none of the fourteen rooms is the same shape.

We restored it slowly and changed as little as we could get away with. What is new is honest about being new; what is old was left alone.

Fourteen rooms, no two alike

Everything on the menu from within forty kilometres

A cellar that predates the current building

No cars needed once you arrive

The rooms

Fourteen rooms, no two the same

The building refused to divide evenly, so we stopped trying. Each room kept the proportions the walls gave it.

South facing, first floor

Valley

from €240 a night

The smallest of the rooms and the one people ask for again. A deep window seat, the valley in front of it, and nothing else competing for the view.

28 m²Queen bedRain showerWindow seat

East facing, second floor

Ridge

from €310 a night

Under the original roof beams, with the light arriving early. If you are the sort of person who wakes at six anyway, this is the room that rewards it.

36 m²King bedFree-standing bathBeamed ceiling

West facing, ground floor

Orchard

from €280 a night

Doors straight onto the walled orchard, which is quiet enough that people take their breakfast out there without being told they can.

34 m²King bedPrivate terraceGarden access

Dual aspect, top floor

The Long Room

from €420 a night

The whole of the top floor. Two windows at either end, a bath under one of them, and enough distance between the bed and the desk to forget the desk.

58 m²King bedSitting roomDual aspect

The table

One menu, written each morning

What arrives from the valley decides what is served. The kitchen writes the card after the delivery, not before.

To begin

Garden, raw and pickled

Whatever came out of the walled garden that morning, some of it cured, some of it an hour old.

From the fire

Hearth-cooked, over vine

One protein, cooked slowly over prunings from the vineyard behind the house.

From the coast

Two hours from the water

Delivered on the morning boat, which is why the card is written after it arrives.

To finish

Cellar and orchard

Fruit from the orchard, and something from a cellar that predates the current building.

The days

Things worth getting up for

All of them start at the door, and most end back here in time for dinner.

90 min

Walk the ridge before breakfast

Two hundred metres of climb and the whole valley underneath it. We will pack coffee.

2 hrs

The cellar, with the person who fills it

Six wines from within forty kilometres, poured by someone who knows the growers by name.

Half day

Ride the old rail line

Flat, shaded and almost entirely traffic-free. Bicycles are in the courtyard; take them.

3 hrs

Cook the fire menu

A morning at the hearth with the kitchen, then you eat what you made for lunch.

2 hrs

Swim the quarry lake

Twenty minutes on foot, cold all year, and empty on almost every day of it.

All day

Nothing, deliberately

The library, the orchard and a jug of something. It is a legitimate choice and we will not disturb you.

Before you come

The practical things

Porto is ninety minutes by car, and the drive along the river for the last thirty of them is the best part of it. There is also a train to Pinhão and we will collect you from the station, which we would recommend if you would rather not drive the valley roads.

Reservations

Come and stay

Send us your dates and how many of you there are. Someone who works here will answer, and they will tell you honestly which room suits you rather than which one is dearest.

Reservations

stay@solsticequinta.com

Telephone

+351 254 738 210

Address

Quinta do Solstício, Douro

Nearest station

Pinhão, 12 km